’65 Notchback: pt2 here and now

Posted: April 26, 2011 in Uncategorized

This blog post is all about the present. I’m going to list averything that I did to my type 4 2L, all the details of my megasquirt/ign setup and where I am at with this car. Bear in mind I bought the car just 9 months ago and it was just a shell of a notch and a truck load of parts and some blood, sweat, and tears plus lots of cash to get it where it is. The funny thing is i have no interior and need paint still, both of which are big dollar deals. Without further adue-

The heart of this build is the type 4 motor. When i got the car it came with a 1600 dp and a weber progressive, not only did it have a garbo carb but it also had a rod knock. That was all I needed to start a type 4 build. I found a complete type 4 w/FI in cali, had it shipped to Tejas for a few bills. The funny thing is a local had a complete type 4, and he wanted $1200 for but he had no idea if it ran. I guess peeps think their stuff is made out of gold.

  • Parts List:
  • GD 1977 2L, case was STD/STD and no syndrom
  • 71mm Crank, polished and balanced locally…STD/STD
  • rods, balanced to 1 gram of each other by me
  • Cam- Jake Raby 9530, modified cam gear, parkerized lifters, double throust cam gear(got a smoking deal on all of that)
  •  30mm mellings oil pump, I match ported the case for the pumps outlet
  • 200mm conversion flywheel, balanced, new stock pressure plate/clutch
  •  reringed stock pistons, honed the cylinders(had to replace one, it was pitted from standing water)
  • all new bearings
  • new oil pressure relief plunger from raby
  • longblock hardware kit from raby
  • german gasket kit
  • threaded case plugs
  • 1.7L heads bored to 94mm, new guides, seats, valves, 135lb springs, chromoly retainers, hardened keepers, lapped and valve job…Rimco did all of the work and it wasn’t cheap.
  • 1.7L rockers, I machined them .060″ thinner
  • actual 911 swivel adjusters, I machined them shorter
  • Raby solid rocker spacers, i had to machine them to fit
  • Raby hardened rocker studs
  • Chromoly pushrods, I set the valve train geometry
  • all the stock tin
  • rebuilt alternator, new belt, used regulator
  • new bosch automatic starter
  • 72-74 T2 heat exchangers, I removed all the aluminum
  • 72-74 header w/ O2 sensor bung
  • bugpack T2 muffler
  • 411/412 air duct

T2 L Jet fuel injection

  • 1.8L 914 plenum, doesn’t have all the internal crap for the egr and the one on the engine had gotten smashed beyond repair, made a blockoff plate for the cold start valve
  • AAV
  • T2 2L runners
  • L jet injectors, cleaned and flow tested…168cc @ 30psi, and 202cc @ 43,5psi
  • 2l T2 throttle body, modified to use a Ford Ranger TPS
  • L jet FPR
  • All the factory fuel rails, and 7mm braided fuel line, and german #13 clamps
  • Bosch cylinder heat temp sender

Mega Squirt 1 v3.0 fuel/ign…giggity

  • MSextra firmware
  • Tuner Studio software, registered version
  • Serial to USB cable, witha 6ft extension
  • premade wire harness
  • Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 3/8″ barbs, and noise insolated
  • trigger wheel w/Ford Mustang VR sensor
  • GM IAT sensor
  • Uni filter dual foam air filter
  • AEM UEGO WBO2 controller/gauge
  • Bosch BIP373 coil drivers (4), I put them in a seperate ign box
  • Constant Baro circuit
  • Tach driver circuit
  • Denso stick coils from a 07 Suzuki GSX-600r (use the same plugs from early 2000’s Ford)
  • Bosch 4001 super platinum plugs from a Mazda Miata, gapped to .044″, resistor type
  • Bung welded to the tank for the fuel return, tank was also sealed with POR15’s tank sealer
  • numerous relays, wire, fuses, shrink tubing, harness sheaths…
  • 47uF 25V cap on the input power to MS for noise supression

The motor build went pretty smoothly, I got most of my type 4 specific stuff from raby since he has every nut and bolt for these motors.  I tried to reuse as much of the stock stuff as I felt comfortable with.  Of course only stuff thats within specs.  The heads were a bit of a nightmare, but I eventually found a good set of 1.7’s in my home town, a good friend of mine, Wally, went and checked them out and said they looked awesome.  Then off to Rimco for the works, ya that was not cheap, no port and polishing or bigger valves.  The green baywindow Bentley came in very useful (its nice hardback book too).  Setting the valve train was a bitch but I took my time and got it right.  I used ZDDPlus break in paste and brad penn breakin oil.  My impression so far is that it exceeded my expectaions in the power department, I seemed to have used a good combo…giggity!

Megasquirt…I heart it, but it took me forever to get through my growing pains.  All of it was self induced, since I refused to follow simple directions.  I didn’t used to be like this, I must be getting cocky or something.  Anyways, fresh motor, new to me fuel injection management, plus ignition ….ya i’m a glutton for punishment.  Well I’m happy to report that i’m through most of the drama.

Here’s the drama that I went through:

VR sensor- had to figure out the correct polarity, then how to properly ground it.  I ended up putting the VR- to the cable shielding and also tied that to engine ground.

Injectors- They wouldn’t fire so I looked at the schematic and realised I left out about 4 components, derr herp herp.

Noise-  And lots of it, it was so bad at one point I had HV arching on socket to my laptop, yikes.  I moved the coil drivers to seperate box, then put resistor plugs in.  I still had an occasional reset at high rpms from the alternator.  I put a 47 uF 25v cap between the 12v into the megasquirt and gnd.  Noise is fixed.

doesn’t seem like a lot of drama but thats about 3 weeks of troubleshooting to solve all of that.

Here is my ignition setup, COPs wasted spark using a 36-1 trig wheel:

  • I got a set of denso stick coils off ebay for $10, 00-present I believe all will work
  • the connectors I’m using are these http://rjminjectiontech.com/collections/pigtails-connectors/products/cop1-con
  • Bosch BIP373 coil drivers, I got them from www.DIYautotune.com, they come with the correct Mica insulators.
  • I used (4) 660 ohm resistors
  • I put a DB15 plug where the LEDs
  • built a box with a huge heat sink for the drivers, cleaned up the inside of my MS, and I feel a lot better about getting all that HV out of the MS.
  • Bosch 4001 Miata resistor plugs ($13 from the local FLAPS)

To be able to use MS1 and direct fire ignition (no EDIS, MS is actually controlling the coils) I had to upgrade to MSextra firmware.  Fine with me extra has a ton of awesome features and the upgrade is free.  www.MSextra.com has all the nitty gritty details on all of the added features and how to wire up the coil drivers.  It says 330 ohm resistors but you need 660’s.  also you’ll beed to feed +12v to the other leg of the COPs.  I build a seperate 12v circuit for the ignition: relay triggered by the fuel pump relay(so the coils can sit there and fire if i leave the key in the on position).  14awg for all the high current lines and 20awg for the control wires.  GOOD GROUNDS!!!  I can’t stress that enough.  I also put a 5a fuse for each pair of coil drivers.  Just like bank firing the injectors your going to pair opposing cylinders.  for us ACVW peeps that means 1-3, and 2-4.

Crap my attention is waning so I’ll add some pics and call it done.  Next installment will be my plans for this car.  Same bat channel, same bat time!

  1. Mario says:

    Giggity giggity is right! Well you stuck out some problems and conquered it, Woot. From here on out will just be fun now 🙂

    P.s. love the layout and look.

  2. Bret says:

    Right on Nick. Great write up. Now I am just waiting for a video to hear that bad boy…

  3. Ita says:

    Looks good nick..now if I could just find a nice t3

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