’65 Notchback Type Dark Pt.1, Yesterday

Posted: April 9, 2011 in Uncategorized


I am well aware there is a large population of type 3 enthusiasts who are absolute purists.  There is even a very exclusive club of these die hards to preserve the originality and correctness of early type 3’s, The 1500 Club.  Yes my car is a 1500 S, but no on going 100% correct…boring!

Past, Present, Future…

Ghost of Christmas Past- This is what the car looked like when I went and checked it out:

Not much to look at but here are some of the good points about this car, fresh pan that was painted in POR15, disc brakes up front, had most of the parts to put it together, virtually rust free body, came with a dual port type 3 1600.

after digging into to it and going through all the parts that came with it I quickly discovered the negatives:

the front and rear aprons are both junk, the front right fender and rear bumper are both junk, the steering column is junk, its missing half of everything or the parts are junk, no title, and the biggest negative was after i got the motor running it had a nasty rod knock

so I went on a buying spree, and I made a very important choice on the powerplant.  I called a local engine builder(his shop is only 3 miles from my house), he told me about how much it will be.  I mentioned that I’m thinking about about a type 4 motor(remember I previously said I had a 914).  He pretty much told me I’m crazy and that he doesn’t want to have any part of it.  He also said he’s the only guy in the houston area whose don’t a type 4 conversion.  I told him I did one to a ’66 split window bus almost 10 years ago and that it was really no big deal, lol.  The challenge was layed out and decision was very clear.  I sold my sport bike and bought a core engine that had a complete FI system still on it for $200.  I sold the hydraulic cam/lifters and the late buse exhaust for $100, so now i’m only into it for $100.

I tore the motor all the way down to inspect it and freshen it up if need be.  It was a good thing that I did too.  both the heads were cracked, one of the cam bearings was fucked, and there was heavy pitting in one of the cylinders.  Still not bad at all since the pistons/crank/case/3 cylinders were all within specs and I got a complete FI setup as well as nearly all the engine tin for $100.

I’m going to take a step back from the engine and get back to the car.  First thing I did was to buy a wire harness from a ’67 since all I had was half a harness.  Turns out that ’67 harness was only half as well.  Luckily it was the half that I needed.  So I combined the two and made a complete harness and wired everything as per the wiring diagram for my car.  Got everything working and then tackled the glass.  After the glass I installed the pan to body seal.  I frogot to mention the body wasn’t even bolted to the pan, made it a bit easier to raise the body 4″ so i could glues the seal down, then lower the body onto it.  I also put brand new smart car tires on it and painted the wheels red(looks alot better then rust).  Its starting to look like a car. 

I got a german key cut for the door locks and I bought the front and rear trunk latches (it was missing both and the rear is notch only so $$$), now I can actually lock the car up, not that there is anything to steal, lol. 

So what I got now is a car that is mostly put back together, all the electrical works, and buying spree on parts for the type 4 engine.  So now I’m in need of a title.  I called the Texas tax office and they have no records of it on file, and there was a CA liscence plate on the rear with a ’92 reg sticker.  Judging from how rust free the body is I wouldn’t be surprised if it is a cali car and it has been parked for the last 20 yrs.  I did a little research and it seemed like international title service would be my answer to the lack of title, they ha not a single bad review.  Wrong!  I paid $270 and had to raise all kinds of hell after 8 months of waiting…WTF!  Also all the guy did was use the webpage for VT DMV to get it registered in my name, I could have done that for $65 and it would have only taken a week.  Live and learn right?  Anyways, I got some sweet 1965 Texas plates off ebay.  Thats the only way to roll 😉

Lets get back to this motor, here is what the long block consists of:

  • GD 2L case (STD/STD) giggity
  • 2L crank (STD) polished and balanced
  • 2L rods balanced
  • 200mm conversion flywheel, balanced (chinese FML!)
  • new clutch disc, reusing the pressure plate from the type 3 motor(looks like its brand new)
  • 73-74 bus heat exchangers(removed all the Al so its just j-tubes now)
  • thunderbird style header w/ O2 bung
  • bugpack muffler
  • Jake Raby 9350 cam and lifters (New)
  • Mahle mains, new rod bearings, new double thrust cam bearings
  • dished bus 2L pistons w/ new rings
  • honed used 94mm cylinders(still in spec)
  • 1.7L heads, bored, new valves, HD single springs, keepers, retainers, seats, guides, hardened rocker studs.
  • chromoly pushrods, modified 1.7L rockers, solid spacers, 911 swivel feet adjusters
  • german gaskets
  • Raby engine hardware kit
  • 30mm oil pump(match ported the case to it), and a new oil pressure relief plunger
  • new rubber mounts for the type 4 engine bar
  • rebuilt alternator, new belt

So $2300 total for the long block and exhaust, that got me a mild 2L with freshly rebuild heads.  Nothing wild but I can vouch for it not being a slouch, it pulls nicely.

Now the fun stuff.  I decided to go with FI, I hate carbs and goal with this build it to go the less traveled path.  Started out just being a simple megasquirt setup for the fuel, that didn’t last very long.  I quickly progressed to a trigger wheel/VR sensor, megasquirt 1 with extra code, and coil on plugs aka distributorless ignition.

So here’s the FI/intake setup:

stock parts-

  • 2L bus injectors (professionally cleaned and flow tested)
  • 2L bus intake runners, TB, and rails/1.8L 914 plenum(they don’t have EGR bullshit)
  • cylinder head temp sender
  • fuel pressure regulator

not stock parts 🙂

  • MS1 w/extra code, bosch coil drivers, and all the rewiring done
  • 5.75″ 36-1 trigger wheel with a 1.5″ hole drilled out the center
  • ford mustang VR sensor
  • ford ranger TPS (I modified the stock TB to accept it, works good)
  • GM IAT sensor mounted on a UNI filter(its for a ATV, lol)
  • 4 GSX-600r COPs, had to use Bosch Miata spark plugs (this is a brilliant setup)
  • Walbro 255lph inline pump, and a universal fi fuel filter
  • AEM wideband O2 sensor(just happen to have one laying around)
  • Wiring harness, terminal strip, crapload of relays, fuses, and wire.
  • misc pigtail connectors for all my goodies

I didn’t get the tester for my megasquirt so I found a few assembly mistakes when i went to fire the engine off for the first time.  Wasted a lot of time but I eventually figured it all out.  The tune isn’t complete but its running pretty.

  1. Mario says:

    Looking good dude 🙂

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